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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.